Rebranding a 500-year-old tradition of self-care

Before Mehmet Katipzadeler undertook the renovation of Hurrem Sultan Hamami and reopened it in 2011, the Turkish bath, colloquially known as hamam, had had trouble attracting customers. By weaving in a spa-like code of conduct into the experience, where customer service is key, Mehmet managed to breathe new life into an otherwise dying out tradition. Today, the Hurrem Sultan Hamami serves up to 3,000 guests monthly and almost 99 percent of its customers are tourists.

‘Running a 500-year-old hamam is more than a hospitality business, it is taking responsibility for history and assuring its longevity. After all, there are two things in the world that are described with the word Turkish in front of it: coffee, and baths,’ he says. The revival of such historical places plays an important role in moving culture forward.

There are 362 historical Turkish baths, such as Hurrem Sultan Hamami, but only 120 are operational, and less than half are under professional management. These establishments are either passed down from one generation to the other or are part of a foundation, as in the case of Hurrem Sultan Hamami. Both ownership models are prone to degeneration and make tending to the needs of an antiquity particularly hard.

But beyond the maintenance of the building, the primary setback Mehmet has faced was to shift the preconceived notions people have had about hamams. Many have been under the impression that going to a Turkish bath meant being kneaded like dough by a mustached, big-bellied, hairy guy. Yet that is far from what Hurrem Sultan Hamami has to offer. Reformulating this association on an international scale, and also convincing local customers that this was a different experience than that of their grandparents’ day, has been a challenge.

The service

When Hurrem Sultan Hamami was built in 1556, Turkish baths were the second most frequented social space in the empire after mosques. Although bathing collectively has been one of the oldest traditions of mankind, its popularity has waned in the modern era, mostly due to the fact that each home acquired their own facility, threatening the longevity of hamam culture.

Mehmet is the first to introduce premium quality and service as expected of a spa of a five-star hotel. ‘The hamam is the second spot, after the hotel, where tourists undress and leave their belongings behind. I take that responsibility very seriously,’ he says. No expense is spared. All products from soaps and shampoo to pestemal towels are locally sourced and customized for Hurrem Sultan Hamami.

Unlike Japanese hot baths or the Finnish sauna, the Turkish bath involves being scrubbed, exfoliated, and washed by a tellak (rubber), whom Mehmet refers to as a therapist. ‘The hamam is a much more hands-on experience that necessitates trusting a professional with your body.’ All are required to know a foreign language, preferably English, acquire know-how of anatomy, and complete 628 hours of scrubbing approved by the Ministry of Education before they can apply for a job. ‘Some start here as towel boys or girls, only allowed to bring a towel or beverages. This is to ensure the quality of hospitality, and from there they can work their way up,’ he says. Since its opening Mehmet’s establishment has managed to become a school for training wellness staff.

This update from a public entity to a private one was met with resistance by customers and business owners alike, yet Hurrem Sultan Hamami is an exemplar of how things should operate. ‘Local customers have to understand that this particular spot has never been open to the public. The hamam is located in the backyard of the Topkapi Palace. Even back then (16th century) it was only frequented by nobles, clergymen, and diplomats. Unfortunately, these types of buildings are costly and the only way to keep them alive is through a whole rounded service.’

The building

Set across from the Hagia Sophia Mosque and Topkapi Palace, known today as the historic center of Istanbul, the hamam was built by Ottoman architect Sinan upon the request of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent’s wife, Hurrem Sultan. Hence why it bears her name.

What transforms Hurrem Sultan Hamami into a one-of-a-kind experience is undoubtedly its building. It is this architectural marvel that is also the hardest to maintain. ‘Basically, the core elements of the Turkish bath experience, such as water, humidity, and heat are all damaging to the structure. Outside of the dome is coated with lead allowing the rising steam to escape, which allows the building to breathe – an architectural genius. Yet the inside, where the heat rises, ought to be painted and cleaned regularly as the excess of steam causes spotting.’

When Mehmet took over the restoration of the building, it had been used for many purposes except for what it was originally built for. For a while, it was a paper depot, then a gas tank, and in 1987, the Culture Ministry turned into a carpet museum. ‘My father is not a hamam owner and I had to do a lot of research into the specifics of it all,’ he says. Under the watchful eye of Professor Tevfik Ilker and the architectural department of Istanbul Technical University, the Hurrem Sultan Hamami was brought back to its original state. ‘A project like this is like a painting. The university owns the copyrights to the restoration and not a single stone can be changed.’ It has been recovered to its authentic self. The original pipeworks laid down by architect Sinan are left exposed for spa-goers to marvel at.

The experience

After a decade in the business, Mehmet believes that although historical hamams are hard to maintain, they are here to stay. ‘In the era of experience commodification, the Turkish bath is the ultimate experience. To be able to treat oneself to a bath befitting a sultan, to spoil oneself as such, is the epitome of self-care. This, matched with the five-star hotel service, is an unbeatable combination. When we started, most customers commended us for the building, but now they leave with specific gratitude for our therapists. They remember them by name and that is the kind of service that we hope to uphold.’